The Beautiful Kingdom of Tonga

 

 Our sail from Bora Bora to Vava'u was the best 14 day trip you could imagine. Seeing an area of light air directly between us and our destination had us heading a sort of reverse great circle route to the North which proved to work well because we sailed through the pass leaving Bora Bora and did not have to start the motor for the following 12 days. As we neared Tonga the winds fell off and we motored into Vava'u... not bad! We had the best conditions possible for the transit and experienced what I had imagined a sail across the South Pacific should be, fair and following seas, perfect temperatures, yup... paradise afloat. The only strong squall encountered of course came while I was hauling in the major catch of the trip. We were gutting the sizeable Mahi in 25 to 30 knots taking spray over the bow and as soon as we had finished the fillets the rain and wind stopped... typical. We dined on a large Barracuda a week earlier but the Mahi was delectable. The nori rolls were pulled out of storage and sushi was made directly. It was an unforgettable experience and as we grew nearer our destination Both Christine and I were feeling a bit mixed up about making landfall, we were having such a nice time we were sad to have to switch back to the achoring game and dealing with being back among all of the cruisers who have accumulated in all of the bays. We have only anchored alone once in all of this time and that was in Tahaa. Alas we have to get in and ready for the next leg so in we went and seeing Tonga to me was a pleasure, it's low laying islands are much different than the towering mountains we have seen throughout the Societys. The coast very steep limestone cliffs with many caves. We worked our way into Neiafu harbor and tied up to the town pier right away, we were boarded by officials within minutes. Four hours after arrival we were checked into the country and checked out of the Vava'u group ready to get back underway. Christine had ran to the market while I was finishing the customs process and we were quickly ready to leave town. One night on the dock and off we went to explore, the first anchorage being Port Maurelle which was near by the Swallows cave. The Nowornot met us there and took us in tow to the cave entrance, it was very cool inside and quite large with two major rooms one dry cave well inside had a hole in the cieling about 100 feet overhead that let light in. There is graffiti all over the walls and we found some that dated back to the 1800's! I free dove to the bottom which was about 50 feet deep and looked up, the light entering the cave reflected off of the walls and down into the clear water... this sight was unlike anything I have seen. After our cave exploration we found a small beach to have lunch and snorkeled/ rowed back to Balena.  We had one last evening with Bob and Ann and were sad to see them go, I have been traveling nearly side by side with them since Nuku Hiva and we have shared some of the most memorable moments of this trip together, they are heading home to Brisbane and I plan to see them there when Balena crosses the Tazman Sea. Christine and I needed to get some ground under our feet so we explored the small island of Kapa on foot. On the South end we found the most secluded beach we have seen. We spent most of the day beachcombing and wandering through the small village nearby. After our return we made ready to haul anchor and find another anchorage. I had seen mention of "coral gardens" on a reef South of us so we found a perfect little anchorage near it and swam the best coral I have seen yet, it is a huge wall that drops straight off and is loaded with different corals and fish. We were fortunate enough to meet another Westsail here the Evangeline and found a water source ashore. After topping up the tanks and figuring a plan of action for the New Zealand crossing we decided it best to head back to town to prepare for the final leg of the season... Vava'u to Opua. It will be a bit shorter that the last leg if the weather cooperates. This leg is a bit more involed since we will be leaving the Tropics and entering the frontal systems that can pack some nasty weather. As I write this we have a good window in the following two weeks so I think this will be it for now. We will take on a little fuel to top off in case of a motoring situation and will get a few more fresh items before shoving off. It is a shame we cannot stay a bit longer but there is always next season. I may have a connection for a cheap mooring in NZ to keep Balena on for the summer South of Russell. So for now this is all I have to share, I have posted a few more photos in the web album, I hope you all enjoy and if all goes well the next you hear will be from a nice mooring in New Zealand... here we go!!    

 

So long Society Islands

9/23/2011

  I intend to return to French Polynesia next year. Simply, it would be silly to come this far and rush through possibly the best cruising grounds in the world. I have visited eight islands in my two months here and feel a bit frustrated that we must move on. We will depart for Tonga in the morning and say goodbye to the Society Islands until next season. A direct route from Bora Bora to the Hapaai Group in Tonga should be about an eight day sail.

  I have now experienced the warm tropical days inside the many lagoons with crystal clear waters, thousands of fish, rays, and sharks, the perfect nights at anchor with the moon so bright you can see your anchor lying below amongst the coral heads and the forests so thick with life and beauty you feel you should only whisper. As many before me, I find it impossible to find the right words to describe the experience and will just say that I am here and I am happy.

  I had time to upload some photos and a blog about Nuku Hiva. I will post a bit about the Tuamotos and Society Islands when we get to Tonga. All is very well aboard Balena. Christine is having a great time and has been a tremendous help, she is a fantastic cook and is picking up on the sail handling quite well. Thanks to the help of Christine and Dink the tender has acquired its name at last “Minke” J We are topped up with fuel, water, and provisions as it may be quite some time until we find civilization again. Bora Bora is a wonderful little island and yet we are very exited to put to sea tomorrow. So until next time, au revoir!

 

Nuku Hiva

      

    A good stretching of the legs was in order after a long stint at sea. It is hard to miss the large ridge of Muake that stands 864 Meters above Taiohae Bay so I high tailed it up to the ridge to gain a different perspective of the island. The top of Muake offers an excellent view and fired goose bumps  up my arms. While sitting eating lunch and the Balena a little speck of white floating in the bay far below, the realization of what I was doing and the exploration that lay ahead really set in. The only sound was from the lush forest and I sat for a good spell pondering many thoughts a young man would who has come this far alone to a place few have seen. I continued on to the North side where you can see how large the Island really is and decided it best to push on to the next bay the following day and walked back down to town after some fruit hunting in the forest.   An Australian couple had me over for dinner on their 16 Meter Ketch “Nowornot” and we decided it a good idea to sail close by “buddy boat” for a bit since we already had the same plan for the next series of islands. I first wanted to explore Nuku Hiva before pushing on so we planned to meet en route to the Touamotos.  Hakatea Bay lays about 3 miles West of Taiohea and has a secluded anchorage that was quite protected. From the head of Hakatea one can walk through what I refer to as the “The garden of the gods” and after a two hour hike up the valley you can find the second tallest waterfall in the world Ahuii waterfall.

 So on August 2^nd I anchored in Hakatea in the afternoon and rowed the dink ashore to see if I could find the trail to the waterfall. The trail was found and after a river crossing I found myself in a place I will never forget called Hakaui. This so-called village had a hand full of small dwellings, all of which were vacant at the time, and surrounding them in the valley were the residents’ gardens which consisted of acres upon acres of all of the fruit you could imagine. Bananas, Mangoes, Papaya, Breadfruit, Star fruit, Coconut, and many that I have no idea about. I kind of walked along slowly with my mouth open in awe of what I was seeing, the valley cliffs rising steeply on either side all covered in palms with large white birds gliding across the forest canopy. The smells were overwhelming, super sensory overload. I was alone in this valley that I could not believe was real, it was getting late in the afternoon and I knew that the waterfall was two hours from the head of the bay so I returned to Balena for a very secluded dinner at anchor. The following morning I sprang up full of excitement to get back ashore for exploring. I could tell no one else had been down the trail because it was full of spiders with their webs strung across the path to trap anything that would pass. I soon was tired of pulling the webs off of my chest and face and knocking strange spiders out of my way so I found a long green stick and sort of bounced it vertically in front of me as I walked and it proved long enough to clear the webs and their residents as I walked at a fairly quick pace. This time through the garden of the gods it was dawn so the many colors sounds and smells were all different than the previous day. I was again floored by the beauty of this magical place and after passing I soon disappeared into the forest along a small path marked periodically by stacked rocks. As described by a fellow cruiser it was like being in Jurassic Park without the dinosaurs. There are ruins spread throughout the valley leading to the waterfall that date back some 500 years and I found many of them overgrown with vegetation but it was clear where the many structures used to stand with only the stacked rock foundations left. About an hour in you come across an opening in the forest canopy and can see Ahuii towering over the palm covered valley.  As you get closer the cliffs grow tighter together and after three river crossings you find yourself walking into a very small cove cut by the water with the cliffs rising directly overhead to about 1000 feet. The base of the Ahuii was not as spectacular as the view from across the valley. The only section visible from below was about 50 feet tall which cascaded into a small murky pool that was very cold. It soon began to rain so I found a covered area to eat my lunch before returning to the area with ruins for a bit more investigating. I found two horses there that were just wandering around the ruins so I said hello, gave them each a pat on the head and moved along. Being alone two hours inland from a bay only accessible by water among 500 year old ruins was a very interesting experience, I knew that many cruisers and tourists do the same hike routinely but this day was mine alone and sitting in this place imagining what had happened here and what the different structures were used for was quite fascinating. I actually never felt alone the entire time. I was careful of where I stepped and did not touch any of the fruit on my way back through the gardens mostly because it just did not feel right… forbidden I guess. I returned to Balena after about six hours in the forest, spent another night and headed back to Taiohea the next morning. There was word that a Colombian girl was seeking passage West so I thought it best to see if she was interested in coming along. After finding out she had other arrangements I was immediately on my way to the Touamotos.

Cruising notes:

-          No fresh water in Taiohea or Daniels Bay, best option for refilling tanks is in Controller Bay.

-          Welcome to the most expensive place to purchase provisions, if at all possible stock up before leaving the Americas to avoid very high prices throughout Polynesia. Alcohol and beer especially.

-          Internet hotspots are very slow and expensive, there are no cafés on Nuku Hiva and Hot Spot WGD was my best option.

-          No No flies do not like lemons

-          Watch the local dancing and drums, it is very good

-          Deep water anchoring, despite what cruising guides say it is recommended to not use a stern anchor due to strong gusts from every direction, it is better to swing on a snubber than to get blown over sideways. Anchorages are all very rolly and not a good place to work aloft.

Landfall !!

7/25/11
 Pacific Ocean crossing... check. I type these words as I sit anchored in Bay Taiohae on the South side of the Marquesan island of Nuku Hiva. A very green and lush landfall after the 33 days en route. Steep cliffs, tall palms, warm breeze, and a quite roomy anchorage with good holding. I arrived last Saturday afternoon and went ashore to try out my land legs which did not fare so well the first few meters of walking, I had to find a near by tree to hold on to for a bit until the land stopped moving so much. I have felt a little wobbly after being at sea for long spells before but this was by far the most difficult time walking I have had without being intoxicated. I made my way towards town where I met a young
French fellow who spoke broken English and asked if I was ok, he said I looked quite drunk! He bought me a beer and introduced me to the capitain of the vessel he was serving as cook aboard, a very interesting research ship called Tara that apparently does plankton and coral research as they circumnavigate under sail power, check them out at taraexpeditions.org. I was taken aboard and fed a pasta of sorts and given a tour before rowing back out to Balena...yes, my first night ashore and I ate aboard another boat, quite funny. In passing a Canadian boat I was invited to coffee the following morning by a sweet couple Val and Jerry who are on the last few legs of thier 18 year circumnavigation!!  After a quite restless night with all new sounds to investigate since everything is now so quiet compared to being underway, I rowed over and was served coffee and pancakes, and had much needed English speaking conversation and was given a few gifts that included a machete for chopping coconuts, a chain claw for taking strain off of my anchor chain with a shackle and a piece of nylon rode to use with it. A good morning, thank you S/V West by North!      
   

Time to give it a go!

Greetings all, I am leaving now… sorry about the quick and dirty BlogSpot but my real website is a work in progress so this will have to do for now. I will be adding new video photos and blurbs when I make landfall, and will eventually fire up the full website that is pretty tricked out, I cant wait!, thanks Stu. The Balena’s first stop is the island of Hiva Oa in the Marquesas. With any luck we will arrive mid July which gives me around three months in the Pacific islands before diverting to New Zealand in October to dodge the onset of “cyclone season”. I am departing California a bit late and with this winter like weather I may have a bumpy departure… better late than never!! To everyone who has helped make this happen I cannot thank you enough for your help. Stu, could not have done it without your help. Carl, I will be off the habit by my next post. To Mike, Roy, Laurent, Calvin, may our paths cross again… somewhere warm! Dave on Meander, your knowledge, experience, and advice have been priceless all the best to ya comrade. Shawn and Katie words can’t describe how wonderful you are. Chad, I will see you in New Zealand. Chris, the best machinist around! Marcia and Mike I hope to visit the new place when I return. The boys at Svens, Blue pelican, I will not miss puking cash on your counters. And finally to my family and friends, without your support I could not do this, I am very thankful to have all of you with me even though you are so far away. Thank you all! I will do my best to document my experience along the way… stay tuned. Until next time I wish you all the best!

-J